From film rolls to fishball noodles: 30 years of KF Seetoh's food journey
Thirty years of chasing char kway teow, chilli crab, and kaya toast have made KF Seetoh Singapore's hawker chronicler. Along the way, he even photographed Lee Kuan Yew — proof that craft and trust matter as much as the story.

"I am a storyteller with a pen and lens. I love food."
Most Singaporeans need no introduction to KF Seetoh. Food critic, street food crusader, and the founder of Makansutra, Seetoh has dedicated his life to protecting and preserving the untold stories of Singapore's culinary and hawker landscape.
Born in the '60s, Seetoh grew up alongside the rise of Singapore's hawker culture—now recognised by UNESCO as an intangible heritage.
His eye for detail first found expression behind a camera at The Straits Times, where he began as a photojournalist. By the late '90s, that passion for stories and food converged in Makansutra, Singapore's first guide dedicated to its vibrant street food scene.
Makansutra has since evolved beyond guidebooks, growing into restaurants, food halls, markets, publications, culinary tours, and events—before taking its brand overseas.
And over three decades, Seetoh never lost sight of what truly matters: documenting and sharing Singapore's food culture.
Growing up in the Sixties
Growing up, Seetoh lived in a Geylang shophouse, surrounded by hawker fare. He feasted on food from street cart hawkers and whizzed around the grounds of the now-shuttered Happy World Amusement Park.

A snapshot of Happy World Amusement Park. Photo credit: Roots.sg
Attractions and leisure spots were sparse, but he remembers the Van Cleef Aquarium and Katong Park and attending the early iterations of the Grand Prix race.
"Everything used to be more carefree. I used to jump into little rivers to swim and fish," he reminisces, speaking of a time when forests still blanketed most of Singapore.
"Going to the public swimming pools was a family affair, and picnics with pots of curry chicken and bee hoon by Changi Beach was a joy. A meal at the Magnolia Café was a decadent affair," he recalls.
Besides special occasions, daily life in Singapore back then is vastly unrecognisable by today's standards. Paying ten cents for a bus ride in 2025 is unheard of, but was a reality for Seetoh, who still holds onto the physical tickets issued during those times with great fondness.

Vintage bus ticket. Photo credit: Roots.sg
Even stories of cab rides from those eras sounded unreal. "The car would not move until at least five people had filled the cab, unlike today where you rely on technology to pick passenger up anywhere along the way," he explains.
Nightlife-wise, being invited to a "function" – essentially, the precursor of a discotheque, where the living room of homes would be transformed into dance halls with food galore - warranted bragging rights. "It was a privilege to be invited to one," Seetoh laughs. "How I loved to show off by saying 'I got function this week!'"
As the decades rolled on, he would be introduced to a new flavour of nightlife that took hold at Mohammad Sultan Road, where he'd travel from club to club, with cups of wine and whisky in tow. Names like Fire, Warehouse, Thumpers, and Studebakers shaped his formative party years.
His go-to food haunts included seafood at Punggol End, where he sampled, in his opinion, one of the nation's finest chilli and pepper crab, the Whitley Road Hawker Centre, Albert Centre Market & Food Centre's hawkers, delicious sarabat stalls along Waterloo Street, where Indian rojak was born.
"These are some fragments of our old lifestyles that are definitely worth preserving," he mentions wistfully.
Getting a head start in photography

A young Seetoh during his stint at The Straits Times.
Besides inheriting his father's culinary sensibilities, Seetoh also acquired his penchant for photography. He'd entertain himself with his father's old camera, the Spy Minolta and the Miranda SLR, pretending he was a photojournalist.
In an era where every job idealised staff with university degrees , he eschewed them to apply for an Advertising Art and Photography course at the now-defunct Baharuddin Vocational Institute.
Fast forward two decades, and Seetoh was now working as a photojournalist for The Straits Times and had a front-end seat to Singapore's ever-expanding skyline. "The tallest building I photographed was the OCBC Centre. It looked like an old Casio calculator," he says. "It took my breath away."
Besides glittering buildings, he was also assigned to cover national projects that would come to be of immense historical importance. During his coverage of the Clean River project, he chanced upon Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew taking a bumboat ride at the newly cleaned river.
"The then-chief photojournalist asked me to dive underwater and look for fish, and I gladly obliged," he laughs.
Food photography, owing to its inherently anthropological nature, spoke the most to Seetoh, who would invariably end up pursuing a prolific career related to it.
Food of a bygone era
"Local food is what taught me to know who I am."
As the nation's culinary landscape underwent its inevitable transformation, Seetoh took it upon himself to be its attentive, adoring witness.
He speaks fondly of dishes cooked with firewood, which greatly lent to the richness and earthiness of the food. "Back then, many hawkers cooked over charcoal, because it was natural and sustainable," he recalls.

Vintage clay charcoal stove, commonly used by hawkers to cook char kway teow (fried noodles) Photo credit: Roots.sg
The fading of these cooking styles from public consciousness also means that younger generations miss out on crucial aspects of their culinary heritage.
"I remember having mud-baked chicken at a kampong eatery, which has mostly likely got sold 'en bloc' at some point. No one cooks in this style anymore because the law prevents it," he mentions.
Other simple gastronomic experiences he yearns for include the elderly hawkers peddling wares (typically bread and fried Chinese fritters) from their bicycles and makeshift food stalls. The hawkers riding from estate to estate would go around selling fresh grilled kaya toast, which Seetoh and his friends would feast on, usually with Horlicks or hot beverages steeped in condensed milk.
This rich tapestry of culinary experiences inadvertently shaped his personal and professional identity, leading him down a path of self-discovery.
An inherited culinary inclination
Seetoh knew about the "silk road' of food in Singapore like the back of his hand. It cemented his connection to the new nation that had been coming into its own since the late Sixties.
So strongly did he resonate with Singapore's then-budding food culture, that he took it upon himself to preserve and document religiously, believing it to the last bastion of local identity and culture.
His connection to food and the culinary arts started from the comfort of his home. His father, who emigrated from Guangzhou, was immensely passionate about food, and took his young son out on culinary excursions galore. His mother, who leveraged her Cantonese heritage and stellar kitchen skills to whip up a storm of scrumptious dishes, also strongly imprinted on his culinary sensibilities.
"I'd drop everything and fly home if I knew my mother was making her classic threadfin fish head fry, complete with kicap manis (soy sauce), caramelised onions and chilli," he reminisces. "I can still prepare it today."
The first time he read a food guide – First Stops, penned by a former Straits Times colleague and food columnist Margaret Chan – provided him with much needed clarity about his own food journey.
"I came to realise that heritage food needs to be preserved and protected."
Going global with Makansutra
Once photography went digital, Seetoh's views on the art form changed. "I felt like this would erode the craft I had enjoyed practising, and was quite successful at," he admits. However, instead of hanging up his camera lens for good, he saw the glimmer of a new opportunity.
"I started Makansutra because I want to feed folks affordably and meaningfully," he comments. "However, ours is an especially challenging brand. We had no role models or heroes to emulate, and we'd run into a wall every time we'd think of ways to capitalise on the deliciousness of our heritage."
The newly launched Makansutra guidebook, released in 1997, did impressive numbers. "The first issue sold about 9,000 books. I couldn't help but compare it to the Hillary Clinton memoirs released around the same time, which sold a million copies," he remarks, dryly. "Later, I learned that selling 5,000 copies in Singapore, meant 'going platinum', for a local production."
Later editions of the guidebook sold 30,000 copies, until he decided to go digital a few years back. As the project started gathering considerable traction at the turn of the century, Seetoh deliberated on what the next steps should be. Ultimately, he decided that positioning Singapore's food culture and heritage as a lifestyle would be Makansutra's niche.
Over the years, the Makansutra franchise has expanded into eateries, hawker centres, television shows, food festivals, conferences, and more. Guidebooks covering neighbouring cities like Beijing, Bali, Penang, Malacca, and Jakarta have also been released.
He even served as consultant for legendary chef and documentarian, the late Anthony Bourdain. And as of 2022, Singapore's food hall concept now lives in New York in an establishment named Urban Hawker.
When Seetoh thinks of the future of Singapore's food culture, he's not just concerned about Makansutra eateries. "My advice would be to keep spinning compelling stories and narratives that compel our leaders to pay attention to this food legacy, that feeds the nation meaningfully and visibly, and belongs to the masses," he advises.
Championing the preservation of Singapore's culinary identity
At the heart of Seetoh's work is his desire to preserve Singapore's hawker heritage.
He witnessed firsthand how the country grew at breakneck speed, and how the local populace came to love hawker food. As Singapore's hawker culture took on a distinct shape, international flavours and brands came calling.
Over time, he began to notice that rapid rates of economic development ushered in something unsavoury. "The original, traditional flavours of our forefathers have been lost in translation over the decades," he explains, disheartened by how glittery brand labels and dizzying new trends have hijacked conversations around cultural and culinary identity.
Singapore today, which openly welcomes all types of international cultures and businesses, is all about the "new", he notes, lamenting the loss of what once was. "Social media algorithms have been dictating to us what we should be, and the newer generations are the most influenced by this," he says.
He points out that while diversity is the main strength of Singapore's culinary scene, its traditional processes need intentional protection.
"Nobody blinks an eye if someone of a certain race eats the food of another race. Even our Muslim friends are now offering halal versions of Chinese and Western fare. You won't find this easily in other non-secular countries," he explains. "This tight fabric of ours, if held together, will lend us resilience during difficult times. We need to cement our local food identity in our hearts and minds before it becomes an afterthought"
Charting the path ahead

Seetoh pictured with the late Anthony Bourdain. Photo credit: New York Post
Seetoh has spoken at length about issues like rising costs, unrealistic customer expectations, and manpower shortages, the latter being a major issue for emerging and heritage brands.
"It's awful to see ageing hawkers engaging in bone-breaking work: washing, prepping, cooking, cleaning, serving, and more. Government agencies have given us bigger, cleaner hawker centres, but no one is looking after the culture from behind the counter."
The sustainable continuity of Singapore's food industry is another pressing issue. "We must ensure that our food industry is sustainable and viable. If not, a new generation of hawkers will shun this space," he warns.
But beyond these considerations, Seetoh mentions that building a sense of belonging is a must, above all, especially in the face of relentless progress. "As we en-bloc away our past, we wipe out social memories and childhood affinity for our land."
"We are a unique nation – small in size, yet we punch above our weight in the world," he continues. "This makes us very vulnerable to outside influences, especially as we careen towards a more expensive future. We must actively protect and celebrate our history and heritage."

Meet Seetoh.
KF Seetoh is a Singaporean food photographer, consultant, commentator, host, and critic. He founded Makansutra in 1998, and is an ardent champion of Singapore's hawker and street food culture.
Connect with him here.